can a distributor cap be put on wrong

I did the wires first, one at a time. Seems to coincidental.

That’s a relief. Difficulty in Starting Some of the bad distributor cap symptoms. Faint yellow spark can be a failed coil or bad ignition module. The screw/hooks were on tight, but I took off the cap and reseated it…it seated MUCH better the second time, I did not feel it set nicely like that the first time…stupid. I’m curious, after I had my incident with the distributor cap being installed wrong and timing getting knocked off, my mechanic said that there was a lot of fuel in the engine oil and they changed the oil but not the filter. usually a timing light is needed to be set.

That is why it ran badly and heated the intake manifold. Loosen this bolt (they make a special dog-leg wrench to reach it) so the distributer can be rotated slightly with hand pressure. The plug wires need to be connected in the proper order or the engine may not run. Is this normal? I’m taking the car back to the mechanic tomorrow but I’d like to hear your opinions first. Feeling sheepish… The condenser is located inside the distributor it looks like a silver can with 1 wire on it. It just sounds like you have the incorrect firing order. Then the cap, rotor, transferred the coil over to the new cap, hooked it all back up and started it. i think also you just need to set the timing. Check a Clymer or Chilton's manual for your make and model of car to see if you have the firing order correct. I had the same kind of car and if that wiring isn’t connected to the spark plugs and the router is not fitted right along with the distributer this can cause it not to start. Then, using the light with the engine running, move the distributer until the marks line up correctly. Turn off the engine and tighten down the distributer and reconnect the vacuum line. Timing being off can do that? Online auto repair questions, problems and troubleshooting. I pulled the cap out completely and removed the rotor…saw the problem, the contact tip on the rotor was bent badly to the side… If that has a good spark, take the cap back off and verify the rotor is on properly, then verify the cap is on right (it is keyed so it will only seat right one way). Then, with the light connected to #1 plug terminal and the battery, start the engine and carefully shine the light on the timing pointer. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us.

If I gradually give it gas, it doesn’t do this, even if the gradual push quickly turns into hard acceleration. It doesn’t sound like pinging or like it’s coming from the actual engine.

In this case MONEY. Second, while I gotta admit the car has TONS more power now with the new coil (I’m guessing more from the timing adjustment and advancement though - 5 degrees), if I punch the throttle, it hesitates, almost like it’s gasping really…just for a second and then takes off…when it does this the RPM’s jump up a tiny bit, then drop to 500 for that second, and then back up as it gets power. If you can provide any of the above information, I am certain that one of us can assist you with the proper firing order. I’ve never checked timing before, is it complicated? Yellow spark is cold it should be a strong hot blue. 1.3motor Fuel Injection 1992 Suzuki Swift,manual Transmission,engine Keeps Going Out Of Time And Stalls ,why, I have replaced the timing belt and tensioner,I reset everything and it does it again. It needs to be set if everything looks good. I got out and he said the entire cap turned about 20 degrees when I tried to start it. My brother-in-law was watching the cap while I started the car, and waved at me to kill the engine right away. No clue where to go from here. I also had a few melted misc wires and the metal brush (?) Anyway, it took a bit to get it started after that still, but it did start and ran…poorly…I double checked all the wires, they were on the right terminals/cylinders. Check for cracks in the plastic of the rotor and distributor cap. Look for carbon tracking. Thanks for reading and your help. 1.

distributor is tight,could it be the the camshaft and cranshaft, BMW 325e Turns Over But Doesn’t Start Intermittently Replaced Spark Plugs No Effect Poping Clutch Works, About once every 6 times I try starting my car it doesn’t start. Use chalk to highlight the correct mark.

sigh Well, I was installing new spark plug wires and a new distributor cap and rotor on my 85 Olds Cutlass today. Powered by Discourse, best viewed with JavaScript enabled. If that has a good spark, take the cap back off and verify the rotor is on properly, then verify the cap is on right (it is keyed so it will only seat right one way). Listen for rough idle. I received the new, correct coil in the mail today and installed it and what a difference! Well, TRIED to start it. When you install the cap, make sure the tabs around the inside lower lip of the cap fit in to the notches on the distributor body. Wrong coil? If you suspect there may be something wrong with your car's distributor cap, try to see if you can repair it instead of replacing it. It could be many different sources however. Then leave the cap off and note which way the rotor turns when cranking and follow the firing order. Hopefully this solves the rough idle and hesitation. I asked this question earlier but I think I confused people (myself included). It does this at any speed, more noticeable at low speeds. Start up the engine again and check the idle RPMs. Then the cap, rotor, transferred the coil over to the new cap, hooked it all back up and started it. To adjust the timing, look down at the base of the distributer (is your distributer mounted at the front or rear of the engine?) I think you car jumped timing. SO…the cap looks totally undamaged, so I am going to buy a new rotor tomorrow and install it (making sure the cap is on right this time…) and hope that’s all. The timing was way off too, I’m assuming from my rotor incident. Thanks, I will have to get a timing light. Engine misfires.

Look at the inside of the cap and make sure all of the terminals are intact, and the spring loaded button in the center is intact. Well, apparently I blew the coil when I installed the distributor incorrectly. If you see any, this indicates a plug wire or spark plug is increasing the resistance and you will need to replace it. I did the wires first, one at a time. The engine turns over fine but never starts. A couple problems…the part # for the coil installed is D505A (ACDelco)…I looked it up on ACDelco’s website and it’s not the right one for my car…I have the less popular Chevy 305 engine, the D505A is for the more popular Olds 307…I need part #D573A according to the site (matches my VIN too - “H”, not “Y” or “9”). 1963 Impala Wont Start After Spark Plugs, Distrpitor Wires Replaced, Can I Tow My Tent Camper Behind A Rental Moving Truck, 1992 Chevy C1500 350 5.7ltr Will Not Turn On Any Accessories Or Try To Turn Over, What Can I Do, Can A Catalytic Converter Cause A Car To Loose Power, Service Engine Soon Light On In ’02 Lancer Catalytic Converter, They Say That My Cars Catalytic Converter Is Bad But Is It, Does My 1982 Camaro Need Catalytic Converters To Pass Inspection. I have had bad aftermarket parts. The condenser is the same issue still along with the ignition coil and module and coil and the numbers are still on the intake on the v8’s along with the firing order. No more hesitation, it idles properly, no stalling at stops, and tons of power. It’s easier to wreck a rotor than to destroy a distributor cap. The engine is ususlly OK after that. Got home, popped the hood, and smoke was coming from the intake manifold (right side of engine). Let me explain, I have a car with an identical engine and assumed I could just copy that engine’s layout on to my oldsmobile. It is a manual and popping the clutch, Car Repair Manuals and Tips on Common Car Problems. You also need to know which spark plug is the #1 and which is #2, and so on…… Number one cylinder-spark plug will be the one that is closest to the front of the car. If it's up to standard then you most likely have switched the plug wires correctly and they are firing on all cylinders again. Do the spark plug test with the wire from the coil where it would connect to the distributor. You may also check the car's idle RPM to see if it is at a normal idle. That interferes with the intake cycle of all the cylinders, going from vacuum to pressure. The end of the rotor probably retarded the timing, so you had fuel burning after the exhaust stroke was done, burning the incoming air and fuel on the intake stroke and firing back through the intake. My question is, did I damage anything else when the rotor made contact with the cap terminals, turning it? If all else fails, try the original cap and rotor. When I really open it up, I can hear a clicking sound coming from the general area of the distributor, consistent with the engine speed…It’s a “new” sound, which I noticed after the timing was adjusted/new dist cap&rotor installed. With a little knowledge and some elbow grease, you can repair certain problems with the distributor cap on your car. 3.8 Buick v6 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme.

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